![]() ![]() Them for 20 years in multiple cars and 7 years per yellow battery isĪverage. Optima is a nice choice if $220 is in your budget. Will not recover 100% from a complete discharge so a Yellow The Yellow Top is designed to be used like a normalīattery but it can recover faster and stay healthier because it isĪlso designed for a little abuse/heavier drain. I greatly appreciate it, and am pleased to say that my truck is back up and running, which means my grandfather's cattle have enough hay to get through the next few weeks.ĭead battery or not: Consider getting a Yellow-Top Optima batteryģ4/78. The 1996/7 Ford F-150 is an easy engine to work on, especially regarding this specific issue and others like it.įinally, my sincere thanks to those of you who so graciously took the time and made the effort to offer your advice. Again, for those of you who are researching: This was an incredibly simple and easy fix. I replaced both the alternator and the battery, and all is well. For anyone doing their own research: Again, despite the fact that there were no visible signs of damage to the alternator externally, it was in fact totally shot. From reading other posts and other research, I'm guessing what happened is that the cell in the battery went bad, and then the alternator fried itself trying to maintain a charge in a bad battery. It's worth noting that there was absolutely no sign of any damage whatsoever to the naked eye: No scorching, nothing. It was basically fried: Several internal components were completely shot. Wondering if I'd needlessly installed a new alternator, I had them test the old one. As soon as the jumper cables are disconnected, the alternator gauge shows zero (all other gauges showing appropriate levels), and the engine dies almost immediately.įollow-up: I decided to have the battery charged while I was switching out the alternator, and after I'd gotten the new alternator installed, I went back to the parts store ( where I'd left the battery) and they informed me that the battery was bad - it had a bad cell. This time I noticed that when the jumper cables are hooked up to the battery, the alternator gauge shows charging - and a little higher than usual, as I would expect. Replaced the lead from battery to starter (it was a little worn), tried it again. Same thing: Started right up, all systems go, only this time the lights, gauges, and everything but the engine shut down, with the engine finally dying after maybe another mile or so. It came back on - all the way, gauges and everything - within about a second.) I parked it, let it sit, and jumped it again. After a couple of miles, the engine shut off - as though you'd turned the key - and then popped right on again! (When it was off, all gauges were dead and so was the engine. I checked the terminals, and the positive was a little loose, so I tightened it up, jumped it - it started right up - and after checking the gauges to make sure all was well went on my way. I was out running errands, and after driving for a couple of miles, turned off the truck, and when I went to start it again, just got the "click." Well, I'd been having some issues with the neutral safety switch, but this felt like a battery issue. It started fine, all gauges reading normal (I'm a habitual and constant gauge-checker). My truck had been running fine, until a couple of days ago. #INSTALLING DARK MODE SWITCH ON 2012 F150 FULL#The dealer said that I would loose the programming on the NGE system if it's not wired to the battery full time.Asked by IowaFarmBoy at 10:19 PM about the 1996 Ford F-150 If I push the button, it will load shed and protect my truck, but it's supposed to kill the power to the plow to physically prevent using the plow unless the button is pushed. My dealer did not utilize the 10 amp B+ power wire, so the plow button has been rendered kind of useless. Will enter a special load shedding strategy to ensureĬontinuous operation of the plow during periods of high The headlamp switch harness, behind the left side of theĭriver's side dash panel. Is a blunt cut Yellow/ Orange wire, and is found taped to Activating Snow Plow Mode will provide 10 Ampī+ power to a dedicated feed for the plow controller. Include the Snow Plow Mode switch located on theĭash. "Vehicles equipped with the Snow Plow Prep option will Regarding the "snow plow" button on the dash, the Ford Body Builders Layout book says: I just had an HTX plow installed on my 2015 F-150 with the show plow prep package. ![]()
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